Did my 1st mockup with my trolling motor today, not good. I do believe I’ll need one of the swiveling trolling motor mounts to keep motor inside gunnels and access to hatches and cleats.
Found two so far, Seaswivel and Shuttleslide rotating mount. Pricing $1K and $750 respectively.
Anyone have any experience with these units? Any other that you’re aware of?
Haven’t seen one before so I can’t weigh in on them. Why don’t you post some pictures of your skiff/mockup so we can get an idea of what you’re working with.
Before we start, motor is too long, but waiting to cut down for now.
OK, here’s the front deck. The holes I filled I assume were from an old trolling motor, it was long gone when I bought this. You also see anchor locker, and toe rails (note 1/2” black starboard). Elongated hole is recessed cleat which I’d like to keep.
More detail on toe rails,
This is what it looks like in a more traditional mount, not a lot of room between toe rail and hatch. Could add a spacer but still have issue with cleat. No wiggle room on edge of hatch (hinged other side). A sliding mount could work here as there’s no toe rail. Head hanging out there pretty good on back side.
This would be about where it’d live with rotating mount. Pivot point is behind motor, spacer added to get mount plate above toe rail.
This is how it might deploy, in a more guide position. Will probably have to make holes is larger front hatch to get to underside of deck for mount fasteners.
First off mount it starboard. This will help keep it out of the way if you’re a fly fisher.
I don’t have any real world experience with SeaSwivel the product but I am working for the owner and have known him for a while. He’s a stand up guy and backs his product. If I were in need I’d go lean towards the SeaSwivel mount without hesitation.
The seaswivel is a great product and works as advertised. Just helped my buddy install one on his center console - very solid and well built. The only downside I can see for a skiff would be added weight along with another snag point.
If it were me, I would add a pwrpux where your bow cleat is. If you need a cleat maybe one can be added in the anchor locker somewhere.
I have no bow cleat and use the d ring when needed.
Thanks guys, still chewing on it. I may do more mockups this afternoon. I will be anchoring this boat some so a workable bow cleat will be required.
There is a cleat in the anchor locker. Only issue would be angle of rope out of locker coming around TM, I suspect the hatch would need to be open or at least closed on top of rope which doesn’t sound great.
Recessed cleats on either side of TM would work, already have one new one so buying one more is way cheaper than $1k swivel plate. Will have to fill the holes for the center mount recessed cleat though.
This by the way is the driver for the mockup. I want to fill all holes and drill all major ones prior to paint and nonskid. Need to know where the TM is going and how wire passes through deck before paint.
The guy from Seaswivel said they have a display at the West right down the street, so I’m heading up there later today to take a look.
Decision made, no swivel mount. The fact is it’s not enough better than a standard bow mount on my boat to justify the cost.
I did go look at the one at West, nice piece, machine work is CNC and spot on. Also, $100 for an 3/4” x 8”x 8” starboard spacer is tough to swallow. LOL. That would have put it at $1200.
Picture below is how it’ll be. I opt to cut holes for recessed cleats on both side of TM. Ordered another as I only have one. Ordered bow chalks to install on the toe rail to keep the line from chafing the new paint.
blue tape on TM shaft should be bottom of head unit after shortening.
Back to build thread.
Good call! Looks like you have clearance from the anchor locker. There also appears to be a notch in that anchor locker for rode or the trolling motor power cable. Look forward too seeing the progress!
