I’m trying to decide between two options for running the wires for my minn kota RT 55 on the Simple Skiff.
The motor is guide mounted on the minn kota quick release bracket (no power puc). I have the battery tender plug. The Simple has 2 forward bulkheads that are open. The battery (LiFePO) will be mounted in the forward section of the bow.
Deck. Mount BT plug through the cap near the TM to install the Battery Tender plug. Under cap, mount circuit breaker and Anderson plug to easily disconnect battery. This seems easiest to accomplish and all wiring would be sort of separated from where the portable gas tank rides. Cons are that it’s a big hole in the cap, hard to access for repair/install, there’s no drain from that section.
Bulkhead. Mount BT plug through bulkhead and attach circuit breaker to inside of bulkhead. Run wire from CB to forward section and mount Anderson plug to forward bulkhead. Pros: cleaner deck when not using trolling motor. Cons: This will require at least 4x the length of wire, wiring and connections in same section of bow as gas tank.
I’m leaning toward deck mount but I’d welcome some input from the community. Here’s a bad sketch:
As close to the trolling motor as you can to reduce trip/tangle hazards. Secondly, forget the plug and wire directly to CB and battery. I’ve never found a plug worth a darn, and I’m not forking out for a power pux.
I’m assuming you want to be able to remove the TM from time to time?
You can mount the BT plug on your deck, BUT while the BT plug is very robust this is a place where salt water intrusion has the greater chance of impacting the longevity of the plug.
The bulkhead will protect it more but as you mention more wire.
A third option (may require a bit of glass work would be to make a small cut out (sorry can’t think of a better way to describe it) in the leading edge of the hatch and run the wire into the hatch. I know it’s a small picture but the area in red is a small depression in the channel to allow the trolling motor cord to pass under the hatch lid. Then you can see there is a notch in the lid. This is how Egret has been doing it since 1996.
Another option if you want to consider leaving the rolling motor permanently on the boat would be to use a vertical clam shell to run the cord through the deck.
Just ordered remaining parts for mine. In center console for TM power I have 24V battery that connects to mini-battery on/off switch that connects to 60Amp breaker. After that 4AWG wire (due to 20’ length of run) to bow inside anchor locker. 4AWG Wire will terminate inside waterproof box on bulkhead. 4Awg will bolt to Blue Sea dual post 5/16 power cable connectors, other side 5/16 8awg run outside of box to Anderson connectors. Anderson connected 8AWG to TM. Wire will pass thru repurposed fuel fill with rubber stopper to motor.
When I need to remove motor, disconnect Anderson connectors, loosen rubber stopper pull wire out.
I stole this from other form. Wire on deck is short and right next to trolling motor. If it does leak a bit, should fall to bottom of anchor lock and drain out to stern. I have fuel fill, waiting on rubber stopper.
I also had issues with the 4AWG wire, not a lot of choice on connections. This should allow 4AWG in, 8AWG out. Waiting for this to come in to pick out box. I also bought Cable Gland Kit to allow cables a watertight pass thru into and out of box.
As another alternative, I recently installed a MK-R plug to replace the original Marinco. It is very robust, has a small wire run and I can quickly remove the motor and seal the plug with a watertight cap. I chose this one over the Battery Tender due to its compact footprint and durability.
What they said! And if you can install parallel to the water even better - meaning that when you plug it in you are pushing toward the front/back/side of the boat rather than down towards the water. That way when you take a wave over the bow the receiver it not sitting there looking up waiting to get flooded. I can’t take credit - had a great installer on my Pathfinder in Jax back in the day!
Mine is mounted inside the front hatch like @iMacattack posted. If I remember I’ll snap a pic when I get home. I wouldn’t have it any other way. Did not want it on the deck but I’ve seen that done and it looks acceptable to me. When I remove the troller (which is rare) I do like the lack of the plug receptable on the deck.
Why not use a PowerPux? If not, the only plug I would use is the Battery Tender plug. Mine is on the deck, close to the troller as others suggested. I use a lot of dialectic grease and have never had any issues.
The hatch would be great but it’s simple skiff so no hatch. I looked at powerpux and printed the template. I was committed to do guide mount and wasn’t confident that I could get the wire hole drilled through the cap only. Even getting the inboard corner of the Minn kota inside was close. It might have been doable with some modifications but I didn’t want to bet on it. Minn kota puck was not too difficult to install and I cut it down to match the curve of the bow. I think I’m settling into mounting through the cap. I ordered an MK plug off Amazon to compare to the BT. If I don’t like it it’s returnable.
That’s one of the coolest things about an old, old skiff. The non-skid you’re looking at is called a “leather surface” by some and as it ages just softens a bit - but still is non-skid that you can clean with a scrub brush… My 1988 hull from Maverick has a few features that you’d like to see on a modern skiff. I’m told that the way it was done was with plastic panels they laid onto wet gelcoat to get that effect at the time it was done..
