I’m going to have two Threaded Deck Bolt locations on the bow…one forward of the hatch (for a casting platform w/turnbuckle) and one centered on the front hach (for stool with turnbuckle). Is the ~1.5” fender washer sufficient, or is a larger backing plate (like 12” x 12” 3/8” thick G10 or aluminum) needed?
I’ve have fender washers on both skiffs for both Stool and Platform, no issues whatsoever 
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Mine for my casting platform is just the 1.5” washer and it’s never been an issue. I would ask someone else specifically about that stool, as it will have a potentially bigger moment arm pulling on it. If you really lean back on that stool…. The casting platforms are just a straight pull.
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I used some 1/8” aluminum stock I had in the garage and cut it to be a backing plate. Definitely recommend over a washer for a stool
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Agree with @BrownDog Much more weight and torque on a stool. It could compress the core material in the hatch lid. @VinnyL has actual experience but it never hurts to err on the side of caution. A plate won’t add significant weight.
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I agree, a stool is a different animal than a casting platform. I found I had to really tighten the turnbuckle to keep from the feet raising enough so the fly line gets stuck under it. Also, the previous owner of my skiff did not use an adequate washer, so there was a little damage on the underside lid.
Search amazon for an aluminum plate. You want 6061 material, or anodized, to get some corrosion protection.
This size is overkill, but you will never crush the fiberglass making it very tight.
Yaocom 2 Pcs 1/4" X 6" Aluminum Disc Round Aluminum Sheets and Plates, 6061 Aluminum Amazon.com
I use Bed-it tape between the aluminum ans fiberglass
Bed-IT Tape, Butyl, for Marine… Amazon.com
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Nice find 1/4x6” marine grade aluminum plates.
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Another option for backing is 3/8" thick StarBoard HDPE. I use it with stainless washers to avoid corrosion by mixing dissimilar metals. Here’s a pic of my Neat-Cleat HDPE backing plate which is rock-solid.
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The bigger the better. I use discs of fiberglass from cutting trim anode fin holes out of compression plates with a hole saw. I think 3.25” and 3/8” thick. 1/2” Starboard or 1/4” aluminum discs will work just as well too.
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I would think it would depend on the deck core and lamination. My deck is honeycomb and I have been really conservative on backing plates. Big is good.
Chip
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The only way you’re going to find out it wasn’t enough is when it fails or deforms your deck so better to be on the safe side. Most cores crush really easily when/if the glass they sandwich fails.
I like g10 or just 1/4 solid frp panel. I have used starboard in a pinch as well. Aluminum and stainless as the last choice to avoid corrosion/rust.
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Once you drill the 1/2” hole for the deck bolt, is it acceptable to just apply adhesive (like 3M 5200) to the bolt, hole, and washer to keep moisture out of the core, or should you really be coating the exposed core with epoxy first?
Clear Silicone will seal it, and not be a PIA to remove.
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100% silicone is underrated for sure.
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My recent PIA to remove 5200 ■■■■ show. Who would glue down the platform!? Jeez
I had to repair damage from removing it.
You can buy a 3’ piece of 2” X 1/8” aluminum flat bar at Walmart, most home improvement stores, or hardware stores, and cut a lifetime supply of backing plates out of that. If you have a Metal Mart near you they sell cutoffs by the pound.
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