I believe that to be IGFA legal you simply have have at least 15" of the class tippet and no more than 12" of bite tippet. The bite tippet is at the fly obviously but I don’t think they care about the other. The lightest part of the tippet is last before the bite so it lays out properly.
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I’ve been experimenting with using something like 75% of my tippet in the butt. Then 15" and 15", before the bite. Especially for very long tippets. I guess it helps…lol I heard through the grapevine that Flip is using a similar formula for ultralong trout tippets.
Great topic and many excellent posts. I typically fish 5’-40#, 2.5’-30# & 2.5’-20# and tie them at home and carry a couple extra just in case.
I totally get what formula1’s post is all about as I don’t care how other people catch fish. I modify my strategy based on what I read and learn but if some other fella wants to toss a Pinfish out on a 12 wt flyrod, so be it.
That said, I do have a question as I make a plan to target Snook this winter. I’ve read that using a 7’ leader, 4’-40# & 3’-30# will suffice when tossing for snook in Mangroves. Thoughts? Prayers?
So if your fishing 12 tippet and 50 bite, why not tie in some 40 between the 12 and 50 to give you some extra length of abrasion resistance? Just for the sake of conversation I have absolutely no plans on being IGFA compliant but it is nice to know how the game is played. Thanks.
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I fish a 9’ leader for the mangroves. Just keep in mind you might be using a front loaded line in the bushes and those slap more so maybe a few extra feet of leader may help with presentation. Also depends on what flies you’re throwing.
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Not sure on the legality off the top of my head. But adding more to the bite section would make the leader increasingly difficult to cast.
Just checked it in that link I posted. Anything after the class tippet is considered “shock” which is only allowed to be 12” including the knots.
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The “class tippet”, in this case your 12lb you are describing is the fuse, so you are trying to land a fish without busting the weakest part, the class tippet has to be at the end of the leader so you can launch your fly effectively using the tapered leader, as an example 40/30/12 class/50 bite. Since most of us are not IGFA we put a bite that is more forgiving. I put a 20” of 40 or 50 bite normally to fight abrasion and have a better chance of landing the beast. I think 12” of bite is too short and I’m not trying to put any on the books. Hence the Albright, Crazy Alberto or Slim Beauty knots are the advent of class tippets to bite tippets, all those knots were transferred to the braid/ spinning world as a side note…
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You can play it any way you want but no reason to have a “stepped up” bite leader, I don’t see any advantage to it. But if you want to play by artificial IGFA rules, you cannot have a bite of more than 12 inches in length (makes it very artificial and makes large record hunting a rich man’s game as you will abrade off far too many fish, bill wrapped, etc), and class tippet must be at least 15 inches in length. If you’re going to do a bite, just make it 50# or whatever and call it a day, the 40 beyond isn’t going to buy you anything in terms of visibility or invisibility.
That was me thinking out loud about extending the bite. It was a stupid thought the more I think of it. Wasn’t aware the tippet had to be attached directly to the bite/shock👍
I agree with you, 12 inch bite is way too short. It’s an artificial number someone thought up way back in the day when no one thought a blue marlin could be landed on fly, and it has stuck with us ever since due to the IGFA. There’s no reason to use 12 inches unless you are record hunting. I throw on anywhere from 15-25 inches, I just pull a length from the spool, tie it on, cut it and call it a day.
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I thought IGFA was a grocery store. Y’all should see how us rednecks catch fish round her!!
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I have been losing mobility and feeling in my hands for quite sometime now so I just purchase tapered leaders these days and tie on a tippet.
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A long time ago, Capt. John Kumiski told me to keep it simple stupid.
On an 8wt, during the warmer months, I do a wingspan of 40# FC and nail knot it to a wingspan of 20# FC. If there is a chance of snook or tarpon, I’ll add a trace of 25-30# FC. Typically, I’m using Berkely Vanish FC. If I’m fishing topwater flies, I use the same formula, but with Ande Mono. The total length comes out around 11-12’.
During the winter months, if I’m not using a tapered 8# or 12# leader on my 8wt, I’ll use the same formula, but if reds and trout are the only targets, I’ll shorten my 20# a bit and add a length of 12# or 8#. On a 6wt, the same lengths apply, but I go with 30#-15#-12 or 8# FC. Again, I will switch to the same formula with Ande Mono if throwing topwater flies.
If I go with a tapered leader, it’s always 9’ and I’ll add about 3’ of either 12# or 8# FC to the end. That is saved for RedFly and Waterman or very technical water.,
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