Trim tab gremlin hunting

For my bday I got the new actuator for my starboard trim tab. Turns out, a $30 switch was all I needed. This is the second Carlinh switch that has failed me. Does anyone know why a 20 amp carling rocker switch would not live up to a year of trim tab use? They are literally marketed for Trim tabs!

Anywho, here is the longer story of the gremlin hunt in case it helps anyone.

Pulled the boat into the garage and enlisted my two youngest mechanics in training:



We spent the morning disconnecting the old trim tab, under the assumption the tab was bad. I had dome some testing but apparently jumped to the conclusion that a 25 year old actuator was more likely the issue than the <1 year old switch. The acutator had worked fine until Sept, then it slowly began to fail to extend, but retracted fine.



We had to be creative to run the wiring, since the TT wire was spliced to the console wire somewhere deep in the bilge. We had JUST enough console wite to get the splice to an open access area to cut and resplce the new actuator wire. After re-running the new wiring through all the clamps (fun) and hooking it up to the switch panel, we thought we were golden.



A quick test crushed our hopes. The new actuator only retracted, but wouldnt extend. Back to square one and we ran out of time to figure it out.

We spent the better part of the next day mapping out and testing the wiring section by section.



The one thing I was certain of is that it wasnt the switch. . . . It was less than a year old and the initial voltage testing (without a load) showed it was working perfectly. It was also wited exactly like the switch next to it for my port tab, which was working fine.



After hours of testing and mapping and thinking, we got creative and hooked the switch back up to the actuator. Lo and behold, when it was hooked up I was getting voltage on both output tabs of the switch, but only when I tried to extend the tab. Somehow, current was jumping the terminals and sending voltage to the actuator to extend and retract simultaneously.

Gotta be the wiring, which as you can see is extremely complicated. 10 pin switch and lots of jumpers. Must have screwed something up.

But the wiring was right, so I had one last test, one I had been avoiding. Take out both switches, and swap all the wiring. In the cold garage, this was the equivalent of trying to get two 90 year old men to play twister. The only thing this would tell me is of the switch was the problem. Which, of course, I knew it wasnt.

But, turns out . . . It was. So off to the only marine store in town to get a new 10 pin rocker switch . . But they didnt have any. 68 bucks later to buy a lenco switch, I now have two working trim tabs. I will need to replace the lenco switch with a lighted rocker switch when it comes in, but for now, she is functional.

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Hey, that is very strange, can you send us the switch back? I’ve never heard of a switch failing like that.

Also can you confirm your wiring? The picture uploaded look a bit off…

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Yeah, definitely different than how I have it rigged. It looks like the outputs and inputs are reversed between the two views. I cropped this down to eliminate the confusion of the switch light wiring to just the terminals that drive the tabs.

I have power coming out of the two middle tabs (#2 and 5 in your diagram), and power coming in on the top tab (# 1) right side) and bottom tab #6 ( left side)


).

Oddly it functions properly. I got this diagram (my version) from somewhere but I dont recall where. I did get the lenco pre-wired switch - going to take a look at how they have it out of curiosity.

If my configuration is somehow affecting the switch longevity, that would be good news as at least then I will have an explanation for the failures.

I thought you had this video, sorry if I didn’t get it to you. It explains each pin on the switch. The inputs are certainly not aligned with how the switch works.

What you need starts about the 5:00 minute mark.

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Thanks sir! I will watch it tonight. Kind of amazing that the tabs work with my configuration. Looks like I basically have the power flowing backward through the switch.

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That’s what it looks like. Would not have caught it if you didn’t post all the diagrams and pictures, thank you! it made it a little easier to help troubleshoot the potential issue.

Lol, I got my brain so twisted around I had to start documenting everything, especially the tests and outcomes.

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Quick Input Cheat Sheet

Left Side of Rear facing switch

#8 Top Independent Lamp (+) (typically input from backlight circuit such and NAV/ANV switch)

#1 Cross Jumps to #6

#2 (+) Input from fuse/breaker

#3 Cross Jump to #4 piggybacked output to Trim Tab (+)

#10 Bottom Independent Lamp (+) Jumped to #8 (jumped to other #10 from other switch)

Right Side of Rear facing switch

#7 Ground for Top Independent lamp jump to #5

#4 Cross Jumped to #3 - piggybacked output to Trim Tab (+)

#5 Ground for Trim Tab

#6 Cross jumped to #1 - piggybacked output to Trim Tab (-)

#9 Bottom Independent Lamp Ground jumped to #5

This is hugely helpful. I’ll re-wire both switches and see what happens. Probably be ordering another 10 pin from NWM shortly!

@MaverickMA I have met some semi-wierdos who wanted their tab switch controls to function backwards…. down on the front makes the bow come up… You’re not one of them are you! lol :zany_face:

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One of my ‘el cheapo’ switches failed the same way. On my meter, it was getting voltage, but no movement at the actuator. So I skipped ahead, and put 12v directly to the actuator and quickly confirmed the switch was the culprit. Had me scratching my head for a minute though.

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We get so many calls about wiring the Carling 10 pin switch that our lead CRS Pam made a wiring video to review how to do it correctly. It’s a huge help to demystify the switch. This video focuses more on a “latching VJD2” but the general concepts are similar for the “non-latching VLD2” version.

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Funny you mention that - I helped a buddy new to owning a skiff install new actuators and he said the same thing - he wanted to wire them the opposite and try it. When I told him he shouldn’t and to think of it like flying a plane (stick forward - nose down, stick up - nose up), it clicked and he goes “yeah, never mind.”

But I can see how someone’s brain goes there.

@vero.waterman - definitely not! When I push the bottom of the switch, it retracts the tabs (bow goes up), when I push the top of the switch, tabs extend (bow goes down).

Now, having said that, have you ever noticed that the button labels are the opposite of that? The bottom of the switch is labeled “DOWN” . . .but it makes the bow go up, and the top of the switch is labeled “UP” but it makes the bow go down.

I’ve never understood that, but it sure makes diagnosing tab issues confusing - everythign is swapped and backwards - the right switch operates the left tab and the left switch operates the right tab.

By the end of the day, my brain was so fricken scrambled I had to have a stiff drink to get myself right again!

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The hardest problems to solve are the ones where one or more of your assumptions is wrong. Good job running it down!

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Wow! And why we are all on this site! What a great conversation! Made my lunch!

@m32825 - Ain’t that the truth. And, based on @iMacattack’s diagram, it is looking like I had multiple assumptions that were wrong-

  1. that it couldn’t be the switch (twice)
  2. That the wiring was right because it was working

Starting to look like the wiring was causing the switches to fail, but why question wiring configurations when they work???

You can make this much easier by buying a Lectrotab switch and sliding the 7 spade connectors on the back and you’re done. I know some of you like the “simplicity” of direct wiring rocker switches, just giving options. This is one I replaced last week. The switch was bad so ordered a new one, replaced the corroded connectors and back in service!

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I would be curious if you rewired the old switch correctly if it would start to work again.

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