Hydraulic steering issue - diagnosis?

Hey all -

I’ve got an issue w/ my seastar hydraulic steering system that erupted this weekend. I believe the issue is in the helm, since I had the steering piston in the stern rebuilt recently. For about a year or two, the steering will “pop” when I turn the wheel one way and then the other (the “pop” happens right after I reverse wheel directions). On Saturday, this minor issue became more serious when I steered one way and then the steering locked and wouldn’t let me turn the wheel the other way without significant pressure. I was able to steer both ways eventually but the issue intermittently returned. Not sure it matters but the issue seemed to be primarily when I turned the wheel to the left.

Any idea exactly what the cause is and how hard it will be to address?

Have you tried bleeding the system? It sounds like uneven pressure due to air bubbles/low fluid?

I’ve got to do the same thing to mine. The plastic tubing set-up I shared in the past is a clean and easy way to bleed the system.

If you’ve had it rebuilt, it may have failed again or not been sealed properly during the repair.

2 Likes

Some of you may already know of this ingenious method, but when I had to replace my hydraulic steering pump, the Uflex tech gave me these steps to manually bleed air out of the system. I bought the vinyl tubing and T-barb at Lowes for about $12. With Uflex and SeaStar hydraulic fluid selling for $27-28 a quart, this minimizes waste and most importantly the mess. For my bleed valves I used 5/16 ID for the hose and 1/4 T-Barb. The tech recommended temporarily using zip ties to hold the tubing in place with the pressure. I also added some on each connection on the barb. Quick process, worked great and you can see the air bubbles moving through the clear tubing.

Manual bleeding is best done with clear hose(s) and barbed t-fitting(s).
This way you can see the bubbles and fluid recirculating to the helm without catch pans and/or losing precious fluid.

   1)  Hook a two foot piece of clear tubing to each bleeder valve on the cylinder and connect them together with the barbed t-fitting.
   2)   Then attach a clear tube to the t-fitting long enough to reach the helm fill port. This hose will be put into the helm fill port.
   3)   Move the motor over to one side and crack open the bleeder on the side with the cylinder rod sticking out the farthest. (not the side up against the bullhorn)
           *Note: hold the motor over, as it will want to move as you turn the wheel.
   4)   Turn the wheel in the direction to make the fluid come out that bleeder only. Fluid and air will travel up the clear tubing to the helm.
          *Note: before it reaches the helm, stop and top off the helm.
    5)  Stick the hose into the fill port and continue turning until the fluid is solid with no air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve.
   6)   Close that bleeder valve and continue turning the wheel in the same direction, this will move the cylinder to the other side.
   7)   Repeat the process for the other side.

Once you have done both sides, steer the motor to the center.
At this point you will need to check the system by shaking the motor side to side, if the cylinder on the shaft moves ¼ inch or less, you are done.
If the cylinder moves more than ¼ inch, there is still air in the system. Rebleed the system and recheck.

Hope this helps shorten the labor the next time you have to bleed a hydraulic system.

5 Likes

That sounds more like the pump giving out. I don’t think you’ll bleed your way out of this one. Check Amazon for a Vevor helm. Same as sea/baystar for a fraction of the cost. They have to be made in the same factory and put different stickers on them.

Thanks all - I’m going to try to do some more troubleshooting and see if I can isolate it the issue. The issue is definitely related to changing steering wheel directions.

I found this video online and it was really informative if I have to rebuild the pump.

He used this kit aftermarket:

Your helm has a ball valve in it that sounds like where your problems are occurring, especially if right after reversing direction.

Based on that video it sounds like it has several ball valves but I think I know the one you are referring to and thats my guess too. Maybe a bad o-ring on one of the pistons in that area? That vid above has me tempted to take it apart.

As my old Econ professor would say, what is your time worth. If you make $100 an hour and spend 5 hours fixing a $200 part. You lost money.

5 Likes