Clean cork?

I have a nearly new fly rod and put it in my truck bed with a reel cover and a rod sock to drive an hour down the road. The cork got covered in soot.

Has anyone been able to clean a fly rod cork? I’ve hear magic eraser’s work

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Light scrubbing with a sponge using a dawn dish detergent and warm water mix. Gently sponge it and once it dries you’ll be pleased with how light and clean it looks. Got this tip from someone at the old place, did it and was pleased with the results.

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If that doesn’t work hit it with some fine sand paper. Take off the soot and buy some cork sealer.

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I’ve used a soft toothbrush with some detergent. If it’s really bad a mild abrasive, like toothpaste, helps.

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I’ve always cleaned my cork with liquid dishwashing liquid and a Scotchbrite scrubber pad. Rinse well and pat dry. They look new afterwards.

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Baking soda and water here. Get the cork wet, put some baking soda on it, then use a tooth brush and rub with the grain (around the grip). Comes out like new.

Mr clean magic erasers do wonders for cork.

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I second the magic eraser

I have used bar keepers friend in the past with solid results. Magic eraser is just magic…..hard to argue with magic!

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I’m sure there are many ways to skin this cat. I’ve always used rubbing alcohol.

Yep, magic eraser and a little soap works great.

Add cork seal after cleaning.

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Not to derail… but why clean cork?

I don’t try to beat my stuff up, but not sure why clean cork would be anything other than a cosmetic thing.

It’s kinda like having a carry hand gun that is pristine. If it doesn’t have holster wear, it is not being used enough.

In my mind, if the cork is clean I wonder is the rod being used enough?!?

Sorry for the derailment- flame away if that is narrow minded on my part.

You’re an a-hole!! :rofl::joy::rofl: Ain’t nothing cool till you wear the new off. Badge of honor!!

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Nothing beats the noob with the plastic still over the cork!!

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Magic eraser, lube it with a soapy water solution of your wife’s favorite dish soap.

Let it air dry.

I use something that is very expensive, but is good as a woodworking finish - Odie’s Oil.

Maybe there’s a woodworker near you that uses it? Or if you’re close to Sopchoppy, stop by and maybe get a bit. If you’re near Pensacola I’ll do your corks for you.

The Odie’s Oil is an odd product, that works insanely well on cork grips. The texture of the cork turns buttery smooth, but gets a bit “tacky” when cork gets wet.

We have teak and mahogany butcher block countertops throughout our home, and I bought a small jar of Odie’s oil a few years ago. Still going strong after numerous projects.

I’ve some maybe 20 sets of corks with it, and they are aging quite nicely.

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All great suggestions. Personally I like Simple Green and a scrubee sponge.

@JaredD Amen! All of our hard use gear should carry the scars of battle…I never worry about boat rash on any of my expensive reels, Makos and Charltons included. Battle scars on reels, guns, dirt bikes, etc means they fulfilled their roles as our trusted and reliable companions in the field. This goes for ourselves, too, lol.

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You may be serious or tongue in cheek on this- but yeah- that is my sentiment.

I have mint stuff I don’t use, then I have my work horse gear.

I am not trying to scratch reels up, but I am not going to lose it if I scratch a finish on a reel, gun, car, etc. it is all temporal.

Only thing I would distinguish from this comment is a hunting dog. I can get beat up, but I don’t want my dog getting torn up (don’t have one at this point, so I am all good).

Jared, no tongue in cheek here. I am dead serious about battle scars. It’s one of my rationales for buying good gear, as I know it can take punishment without falling apart. I don’t abuse my gear (for example, I don’t use a reel to hammer a nail into wood…), but I don’t baby it either. But like you I do have some mint stuff I don’t use anymore. I have scratched up my Charlton reels, but they have long since retired as I value them too much to risk losing when checked into luggage on a trip.

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I will clean cork only if it becomes slick. When doing so, I just use very small grit sandpaper. Same way I shaped handles when I was building rods long ago.